By the time Mr Lemur and I hit Saigon on our tour of Southern Vietnam, you might think we’d have been all marketed out, but Ben Thanh market revitalised us. At first it felt a bit unwieldy with lots of stalls selling cheap clothes, fake plastic fruit and assorted tschotschkes, not to mention the Viet ladies who have no problem whatsoever grabbing you and pushing you aside if you are in their way. (Seriously, they make little old Italian ladies seem reticent.) But we soon warmed to the cheery rudeness of the atmosphere and enjoyed a pretty good pork chop bun for breakfast. Since we were nearing the end of our time in Asia, I felt justified in attempting a bit of food shopping. While it was sadly not feasible to carry home any of the pickled fish I enjoyed in Chau Doc, it did seem reasonable to pick up some dried shrimp and spices. Ben Thanh had some lovely looking shrimp stalls where I’m fairly certain I was ripped off, and pushy coffee vendors who clearly dealt with tourists a lot. But the spice stall was not set up for tourism and, as you can see above, its proprietor was just a little daunting.
I wanted some powdered ca ri ga mix, as Vietnamese curries are very specific and it struck me that this would be kind of a good staple to have in the storecupboard. Luckily, one of the customers took pity on me and decided to help out. You can see the Vietnamese phrasebook in my hand there – never has a book been less useful. It’s no insult to the good people at Lonely Planet, as the book is well thought out and does its best, but dear gods, nobody ever understood a single word of Vietnamese that came out of my mouth. This little interaction was a testiment to the magical powers of cross-cultural communication; one of those occasions where you somehow exchange meaning with someone despite sharing absolutely no common language. Shopping for food tends to bring this out in people – maybe it’s the cultural centrality of food, or the practicality of having lots of things to point at – but I love ‘talking’ to people like this in markets. With this nice lady’s help, I came home with a box of curry powder for chicken.
I know someone is going to tell me you can buy the same brand in London and you probably can, but I was happy to have it recommended. I finally tried out the curry powder this week, making a more or less traditional Vietnamese ca ri ga. I omitted the usual potatoes but you can always put them in with the carrots if you like them more than I do! Vietnamese curry is lighter than, say, a southern Thai curry, with less coconut milk and a soupier consistency. Don’t let that put you off – the flavour is hearty and reassuring, good for a late summer evening.
Vietnamese chicken curry
- 8 pieces of chicken (either a whole chicken jointed or a selection of thigh and leg pieces)
- 3 tbsp Vietnamese curry powder
- 1 tsp chili powder (or to taste)
- 3 shallots
- 4 stalks lemongrass
- 1 thumb ginger
- 2 cloves garlic
- 6 lime leaves
- 2 fresh red chilies, sliced
- 1/2 can coconut milk
- 1 onion, cut in thin wedges
- 2 carrots, thickly sliced
- cilantro to garnish
Start by rubbing 2 tbsp of curry powder over your chicken with a bit of salt and leaving for at least a half hour.
While you wait, make the curry paste. Chop the garlic, ginger, shallots and lemongrass and either pound in a mortar and pestle or whizz in a mini-prep. Brown the chicken well in a large pan or wok – I use a flat-bottomed Le Creuset – until the aromas of the curry are released.
Next, add the curry paste to the chicken and fry a little till it no longer smells raw. Then add the remainder of the curry powder, chili powder to taste (I don’t like this dish to be too spicy so I go light on the dried chilies), the sliced fresh chilies and lime leaves. Stir briefly and add a cup of water (you might need a bit more depending on your pot). Bring to the boil and then simmer, covered, for 20 minutes.
Add the onions, carrots and coconut milk and simmer for another 15 minutes or until the carrots are cooked. Garnish with a bit of chopped cilantro. Serve with rice or bread.
Serves 4.
55 comments
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September 10, 2012 at 6:08 pm
Mikalee Byerman
This sounds absolutely mouth-watering…I think I will try it with the potatoes, though!
Thank you for sharing…
🙂
September 10, 2012 at 6:10 pm
hungrylemur
Thanks! Sweet potatoes are good too…
September 10, 2012 at 6:16 pm
Things You Realize After You Get Married
That looks delicious! Cilantro is a great garnish to curry dishes!
September 10, 2012 at 7:24 pm
asadkayani345
Reblogged this on asadkayani.
September 10, 2012 at 7:43 pm
babydot74
Mmmm…looks great! My MIL (Vietnamese) tried to teach me how to make her famous chicken curry but I don’t think mine came out quite right. I’ll have to practice again and hopefully it’ll come out more edible the next time. Hee hee. Thanks for sharing!
September 10, 2012 at 7:46 pm
hungrylemur
I can’t boast a Vietnamese MIL but maybe that’s why I have less pressure on making a perfect chicken curry!
September 10, 2012 at 7:47 pm
Mei
ooohh wow that looks delicious! I recently moved to small town texas and have been having serious cravings for vietnamese food….which doesn’t exist for at least 200 miles and even then it sucks. The recipes that I’ve found so far don’t sound too authentic but yours looks fantastic! Thank you for sharing! Hopefully I will soon have a happy tummy thanks to you!
September 10, 2012 at 7:54 pm
hungrylemur
I feel your pain! I’ve moved around a bit and though I’m better located now for Asian food, I know what it’s like to crave what you can’t find…I hope you enjoy the recipe.
September 10, 2012 at 8:50 pm
gwynnem
I don’t even eat chicken, but you make this meal look delightful. I had many similar food shopping experiences when I lived in China and was trying in vain to not butcher Mandarin. Great post!
September 10, 2012 at 9:02 pm
hungrylemur
Thanks! I think Vietnamese is a bit like Mandarin – the tonal qualities utterly defeated me…
September 11, 2012 at 2:02 am
gwynnem
After a while I learned that if I said something with the correct tone in Mandarin, it was a big achievement. 🙂 Also, made me all the more sympathetic to ESL learners in the States. Learning a foreign language is HARD.
September 10, 2012 at 9:10 pm
Daniel Mayes
Beautiful images and really wonderful post! I’ll have to try this some time!
September 10, 2012 at 9:13 pm
hungrylemur
Thanks – let me know how it goes!
September 10, 2012 at 9:12 pm
Dawn Akemi
Here in L.A., the specificity and depth of variety in the Asian markets make every trip a culinary adventure. I always try one new thing. Vietnamese curry is one of my favorites. In fact, with out fail, I haven’t met an Asian curry i do not like. Thanks for the yummy looking recipe. Will have to look for that brand of curry in L.A.
September 10, 2012 at 9:14 pm
hungrylemur
I’ve only been to LA briefly for work, but I’d fly back just for the Thai food I ate there. I envy your Asian markets…
September 10, 2012 at 9:57 pm
A Pek
Yum! 🙂
September 10, 2012 at 11:48 pm
thejennyjacobs
I can’t wait to try this! It sounds delicious… thanks for sharing!
September 11, 2012 at 12:02 am
Vn-Japan
oh Very good 😦
September 11, 2012 at 1:27 am
thevikingmikeblog
Look’s very good
September 11, 2012 at 4:25 am
Lu
I am a vegan but you definitely made it look good! You made me miss chicken! Congrats on being Freshly Pressed!
September 11, 2012 at 6:58 am
hungrylemur
Thanks! My next post is actually going to be a vegan recipe – I eat without meat a fair amount – so feel free to pop back. 🙂
September 11, 2012 at 8:50 am
Angeltrekker
great blog, love the food, glorius food!
September 11, 2012 at 10:58 am
Food and Tools
Congratulations on being freshly pressed. Food looks delicious! I also like to bring back some spices and food items when I travel!
September 11, 2012 at 11:08 am
hungrylemur
Thanks! Yes, I’m always slightly nervous coming back through customs but its usually ok with dried things, and worth it to have lovely new spices to cook with.
September 11, 2012 at 11:50 am
mindfulacting
This post reminded me of my holiday in Vietnam, 2 years ago. I loved it! Thanks for sharing your recipe.
September 11, 2012 at 12:06 pm
hungrylemur
I adored Vietnam too – am plotting a return trip to see the north this time.
September 11, 2012 at 2:51 pm
mindfulacting
I’m sure you will enjoy Hanoi!
September 11, 2012 at 12:36 pm
ronyshapira
wow looks amazing!!
Thank you for sharing 🙂
❤
http://wattwewear.wordpress.com/
September 11, 2012 at 3:36 pm
jenniesisler
This looks so delicious. I love trying new foods but I doubt my curry would come out quite as pretty…..
September 11, 2012 at 8:51 pm
hungrylemur
Thanks – and honestly, it doesn’t take any effort to make it pretty!
September 11, 2012 at 7:30 pm
jimceastman
It looks very delicious! thanks for sharing, and congratulations for getting on Freshly Pressed!
September 11, 2012 at 8:51 pm
hungrylemur
Cheers 🙂
September 12, 2012 at 4:10 am
neverstoptravelling
so yummm !!!
September 12, 2012 at 2:33 pm
wegotthebeets
Thanks for sharing 🙂 I’ve been craving Vietnamese lately!
September 12, 2012 at 3:18 pm
writerdood
Cool. I’m definitely giving this a try! I might take the skin off the chicken though. I’m not supposed to have that much fat.
September 12, 2012 at 4:05 pm
hungrylemur
I sometimes just peel off the skin before I eat it because it’s easier to sauté with skin on, but whatever way you usually do your chicken would work. It’s a forgiving dish! I like your avatar 😉
September 12, 2012 at 4:38 pm
littlecitybot
omg yumm vietnamese EVERYTHING. looks delicious.
September 12, 2012 at 4:52 pm
Marie
Reblogged this on The Sexy Home Chef and commented:
They have just made Freshly Pressed. Woohoo. One of the reasons I reblog is, in order to remember and read further the blog of others in WordPress. I wouldn’t remember this, otherwise. I look forward to the other posts.
September 12, 2012 at 10:54 pm
Washington, DC
Looks good! Real good! Funny, I was craving Vietnamese pad thai from one of my favorite restaurants today. The spices in the food. Oh my…
September 13, 2012 at 6:38 am
hungrylemur
It’s time for Vietnamese food clearly…
September 13, 2012 at 12:32 am
useyourcleanser
Hey Saigon is my hometown, oh well reading your post make me remember about my childhood 🙂
My mom have a deep fried curry chicken as well, hm not deep fried, bu enough oil in the pan to make it brownish yellow in colour and crispy 😛
September 13, 2012 at 6:39 am
hungrylemur
I loved Saigon, it had such a good atmosphere. I wish I could have stayed longer. Your mom’s curry sounds wonderful. Mmm, crispy chicken! 🙂
September 14, 2012 at 1:24 am
useyourcleanser
Hey if you love Saigon, Vietnam, you must check out this blog http://hcmctoday.blogspot.ca
He is an American who is a teacher in Vietnam for over 4 years. his blog will be delete soon but he is moving to a website right here
http://www.alexbyalex.com
I am sure you will enjoy your time at his blog
September 14, 2012 at 7:30 am
hungrylemur
Thanks, I’ll definitely check it out. 🙂
September 13, 2012 at 3:44 am
transitionstande
Lovely post. I agree, it is such fun talking to people whose language you don’t speak!!
September 13, 2012 at 6:40 am
hungrylemur
Thanks! Yes, one of the great joys of travelling.
September 13, 2012 at 8:01 am
bodhimoments
mmmm….. my mouth is watering!
September 13, 2012 at 3:53 pm
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[…] Vietnamese Chicken Curry (thelemursarehungry.wordpress.com) […]
September 27, 2012 at 6:41 pm
Reverse Engineering
Is this a traditional Southern Vietnamese dish or all of Vietnam?
September 28, 2012 at 3:29 pm
hungrylemur
Hmm, I don’t really know. I think of it as all of Vietnam, it’s such a ubiquitous dish, but I don’t actually know its origins. Maybe I need a trip to northern Vietnam to investigate further…
October 1, 2012 at 12:03 am
trialsinfood
your curry looks yummy! and vietnamese isn’t the easiest language to speak. good for you for trying!
October 3, 2012 at 8:17 pm
hungrylemur
Thanks! It was definitely a linguistic challenge…
October 12, 2012 at 9:31 pm
Age-Defying ( well some say it is ) « prettycoolidea
[…] Vietnamese Chicken Curry (thelemursarehungry.wordpress.com) […]
July 16, 2013 at 10:21 am
More about the author
I do not know if it’s just me or if perhaps everybody else experiencing issues with your website. It seems like some of the written text on your content are running off the screen. Can somebody else please comment and let me know if this is happening to them too? This might be a issue with my web browser because I’ve
had this happen previously. Thanks
July 16, 2013 at 10:31 am
hungrylemur
Hi – what browser are you using? It looks ok to me in Firefox, Chrome and Safari. Perhaps it is something in your browser settings? If you keep having problems, I’d suggest looking at the WordPress forums as they are usually super helpful. And please let me know if you think there’s a problem with the site!